West London native Molly Goddard began to specialise in traditional hand-craft techniques such as hand pleating, smocking and crocheting during her BA in Fashion Knit at Central St Martins. The Designer presented her AW15 collection on schedule at Somerset House in February 2015, on the set of a makeshift working art studio. The success of Molly’s SS15 and AW15 collections is reflected in her acquisition of prestigious stockists such as Dover Street Market London, Dover Street Market New York, IT Hong Kong and Club 21.
Photos courtesy of Jamie Stoker, Dazed Digital and London Fashion Week
Scottish Charles Jeffrey is a London based fashion designer and illustrator. Jeffrey graduated from London Central St Martins menswear BA in 2013 and, with special thanks to Creative Scotland Scholarship, undertook the MA in fashion menswear from 2014. He is monthly gathering LOVERBOY where he collaborates with artists, photographers and musicians to then use as a source of inspiration and promote a universe for his work to thrive in.
Denim jeans, t-shirts and tunics were splashed with paint – but after they had been sewn, not conventionally before, on the fabric. A type of action-art. Some pieces were made on Savile Row, like the double-breasted boating jacket. But what Jeffrey created was a peacocking microcosm, reminiscent of the freedoms of an 80s subculture: the room was dark and drenched in music; models dancing on a podium – some half-naked – as rose-petals were thrown over them.
Photos courtesy of Charles Jeffrey
Menswear designer and recent Central Saint Martins graduate Grace Wales Bonner was the subject of the V&A’s Fashion in Motion on the 10th of April. Born in South-East London to an English mother and Jamaican father, Wales Bonner’s designs explore cross cultural hybridity, masculinity and notions of European and African luxury fashion.
The Designer takes inspiration from black visual culture and mix couture techniques with African craft. Her SS15 graduate collection Afrique explored Coco Chanel via Lagos and won the L’Oreal Professionnel Designer of the Year Award. The AW15 collection Ebonics was included within Fashion East’s London Collections: Men programme, known for highlighting London’s future design talent. Inspired by exoticism and 19th-century depictions of black men, the collection featured crushed velvet embellished with cowrie shells and Swarovski crystals, high waisted flares, jewelled skull caps and intricate neckpieces.
Photos courtesy Wales Bonner, Dazed Digital and London Fashion Week
Juun.J graduated from ESMOD Seoul in 1992 and worked at many prestigious fashion houses. Asia Times selected him as the top 4 notable designers to watch. In 2007, Juun.J debuts his namesake label. By deconstructing traditional ideas in menswear, Juun.J quickly establishes himself as the most innovative designer to watch during fashion week.
For his latest collection, the designer brought to life a host of transformable hybrids such as trousers that unzip to reveal the bottom part of a jacket, hinting at being a jumpsuit or a canvas and denim mackintosh layered over a jacket. The color palette of black, denim, and white was dictated by the materials. Trousers fell straight from the hip, sometimes detailed like sailor pants, the leg pooling from the fabric weight, breaking at the instep.
Photos courtesy of Juun. J & Dazed
The latest collection of Zirochka Ukraine was presented during Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days AW15. The founder of the brand is the young Dariia Lagenberg.
Lagenberg mixed bright and basic colors, sporty and classic silhouettes and added some sculptural or even cosmic forms and intricate detailing. The statement pieces included voluminous colorblocked suits and dresses, resembling the uniform of the sportsmen. The designer celebrated the sport style, forsaking all the mannish and bringing newness and femininity into classical athletic designs.
Photos courtesy of Clara Sein
Milan based womenswear label designed by Vienna born Arthur Arbesser was fouded in 2013. Five months later he won Vogue Italia and Altaroma's competition "Who is on Next?" with his second collection and has recently been nominated for the upcoming LVMH-prize 2015. He is know internationally as one of the most promising new designer in the Milanese panorama.
For this season, Arbesser main focus is on chosen materials. A jacket in the stuff was as sturdy as a wool and chenille blend sweater, and the matching skirt was very soft. Arbesser's vegan suede, while noble, wasn't quite as compelling as a leather-like coat in rubberized cotton that he affectionately referred to as "nasty." Elsewhere, a preoccupation with uniforms materialized in both dirndl-shaped skirts and sailor-collar stripes. The most vivid pieces were the ones in a graphic, multicolor print inspired by Vienna's Wiener Werkstätte; but if that proved too lively for the LVMH jurors, there was also a smart metallic pinstripe.
Photos courtesy of Arthur Arbesser
GOEN.J is a womenswear brand based in Seoul. The designer Jong Go-woun was born in Korea. She spent 7 years in Paris where she studied Fashion Design at Studio Bercot and graduated in 2009. One year later, she won the popular TV show Project Runway Korea and launched her own brand GOEN.J.
GOEN.J quickly became a household name. Her collections have gained some of the most prestigious stockists in the world like Barneys New York, Opening Ceremony, I.T. and Harvey Nichols.
Photos courtesy of GOEN.J